I’ll continue to post as I progress along with this pattern. I’m slated to teach how to make this pattern at the YarnBasket in Branford CT – my first time teaching a pattern, and I want to make sure I work out all the kinks.
Here are pics to show this ‘nicer’ edge that she doesn’t give clear directions on how to do, other than mentioning as a tip: “Always lift off the first stitch; it leaves a nicer edge.” I had to do this on the WRENNA pattern, so I know what she was referring to by looking at her picture.
Because I’m using one size 7 and one size 8 needle to do this pattern, you will notice the edge to look a bit looser – but since felting is very forgiving, I’m not gonna stress over this!
Here’s how to create this ‘nicer’ edge. In the pic on the left, the needle is positioned to slip the sts as if to purl. Notice the location of the working yarn, it’s in ‘front’ of the work, as if to purl. In the pic on the right, I’ve slipped the sts off of the needle as if to purl, the working yarn remains in front.
The pic on the left, shows the working yarn moved to the back so I can then begin to knit the next sts. The pic on the right, shows the beginning of the continuation of working the square in garter – knitting the next sts after slipping the first sts as if to purl. The next pic is just the follow through with that second sts ‘knitted’.
This pic shows the ‘nicer edge’ created by slipping the first sts as if to purl WITH THE WORKING YARN IN FRONT as if to actually purl that sts. Notice the edging… this actually sets it up to be able to pick up 20 sts on the edge of the 6th square to make the “L” shape to the way the squares are joined and laid out. It also helps when the squares are joined in the folding process to shape them into a slipper.
These two pics show the size square I finally got to be able to have the length of the square be close to the width of the square, so when I have to pick up the 20 sts on the edge of the 6th square – it would be close to the width of the square… this is why, for me, I am using one size 7 needle and one size 8 needle to meet the gauge of 5.5 sts to the inch. The gauge called for in the pattern is 5.5 sts (22 sts = 4 ins) on a size NINE needle. With the yarn I’m using that wasn’t achievable with a CO of 20 sts for the size 9 that I’m making. And the yarn used in the pattern is a Norwegian yarn (PT2) which I’m told is a DK weight AND just slightly thicker than sock yarn. Couldn’t find it, so I’m getting that gauge with the needles/yarn I’m using. This yarn is Cascade 220 Heather.
And here is what my dining room table looks like … I need to get out of my work/study when I’m ‘stuck’ with a pattern’s direction… I need LOTS of physical space around me.
Cascade 220 Heather, made in Peru
*Aran* Weight: 100 g/3.5 oz
Yardage: 220 yds/200 meters
Gauge: 18-20 sts = 4” (10 cm)
Needle size: #7-8 US (4.5-5.0 mm)
Fiber: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Berrocco Ultra Alpaca – Light, made in Peru
DK Weight: 50 g/ 1.75 oz
Yardage: 144 yds/133 m
Gauge: 23 sts = 4” (10 cm)
Needle size: #5 US (3.75 mm)
Fiber: 50% Super fine Alpaca; 50% Peruvian Wool
PT2 yarn by Per Tryving, Norway
DK Weight: 11 wpi
Yardage: 180 yds/165 m
Gauge: 22.0 sts = 4” (10 cm)
Needle size: #3 mm-4 mm
Fiber: 100% Wool
I’ve also used Calaway yarn – WW. As long as I get the gauge, I use the yarn. But for these slippers I’m making now, I intentionally am using the yarn that is sold at the Yarn Basket (where I’ll be teaching the ‘how to’ for this pattern)… that way there is no ‘but I want to use the yarn you used…’ and they can’t get it there. Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride WW is good too.
Just remember to get the gauge!
Swatch-Swatch-Swatch!
